Wednesday, May 30, 2012

Titanic Part 8


Some time has past since I posted my last part (7). Progress has gone forward as well as backward.  So lets begin with once the deck was attached.
The next thing I decided was to use the plastic railing that comes in the kit.  My reason at first, was this piece or pieces would be one of the more outstanding items when viewing the ship from the stern.  The photo etch (PE) parts for this railing is one piece versus the plastic which contain several smaller pieces making up the rail.  Now. I am not the worse modeler working with PE parts nor am I the best; in most cases I do acceptable work. Trying to bend the one piece PE rail would be a challenge as there are several right and left folds necessary for this section.  I figured I would probably screw it up and ruin the desired effect.  So I opted for the kit railing. After I attached this railing, I decided I did not like it.  Unfortunately the glue had set up and trying to remove this would only mar the final appearance.  I'll leave it I said, and do the rest of the railings with the PE parts.
A good view of the stern railing referred to in the text

So I started attaching the PE railings.  Right off the bat, it seem like I was about to get into trouble.  The PE is so thin, it's almost impossible to remove the railing from the fret without distorting the railing.  Once bent where it was needed and attached, the railings became almost invisible.  This is not to take into account that the funnel rigging had been completed, making it very difficult to fit the railings in place.  After attaching three or four railings it became evident that the PE railings were not going to work.  It was back to the kit railings.  I thinned the railing with sandpaper as much as I dared for fear of  destroying these in the thinning progress.  As can be seen, they do not look all that bad.
The cover over the dome
So now that the railing was done, the skylights over the famous glass domes was to be attached.  Again a problem occurs.

The PF skylight, although perfect in folding does not fit properly over the dome.  The dome sits to high not allowing the skylight to sit on the deck as it should. To make it sit lower would call for a major reconstruct of this area or dis-forming the skylight. What to do?  Easy, leave the dome off, unless one is looking for the dome by close up examination, you won't notice its not there. the hole in the cover are small enough to hid where the dome would sit.
The bow without the railing attached yet.
Next the bow and stern. I begin by drilling out the port holes on the bow and thinning out the railing.  When I test fitted this piece it just did not look good.  Like a large white glob.  So I carefully cut the railing off in hopes of using the PE ones. I believe in this case, it just might work out okay.  Time will tell and look for the next Titanic Part 9.  By then that should be done.

Thursday, May 17, 2012

Titanic Part 7

Just a short add on to this on going series.  In viewing to photo files of the titanic that I have, it is apparent that the port holes at deck level should be drilled out.  Fortunately with the hull being so flat sided without projections sticking out over the hull, it is easy to lay the hull and on side and drill out all the port holes which are only indented on the model.

On the Starboard side the holes have all been drilled out.

One can see a big difference compared to the Port side which still remains to be done.
One can also see that some of the detail work is in progress on the boat deck and above now that the stacks have been finished.

Saturday, May 12, 2012

Titanic Part 6

The experience keeps growing; when last I wrote in part 5, I was about to tackle the decks and the sides.  In studying the instructions it became apparent the four funnels needed to be assembled and rigging put in place before attempting to attach the decks.  Not to be out smarted by the instructions, I would glue the fore and aft decks to "A" deck then attached the decks to each other.  Well that was not the smartest thing to do.  Pay attention to the instructions, they sometimes know the proper sequence that should be followed. I soon realized the were correct.
So I backed off and proceeded to finish the boat deck attaching the funnels before rigging.  This also proved not to be the best way to apply rigging to the funnels.
there was so much flexing of the deck assembly that it became impossible to rig the funnels in this way.
As an end result, I glued the decks to the sides and managed with a lot of struggling to get the entire assembly attached to the hull.  It took a lot of pressing, snapping and cuss words before I was able to get this assembly to fit as it should for the most part.  There are still a few areas which will require some additional fitting and I assume more cuss words before I am satisfied with the final fit.
The ship as she sits on my work bench
Now came the problem of how to complete the rigging of the funnels as they are designed to have the rigging attached to the boat deck run up into the funnel laced around and back down through the boat deck and up again into the funnel until the funnel is fully rigged and ending at the bottom of the boat deck where it is to glued to the underside of the deck.
Instead of this being a simple thing to do, I now must rig each funnel by single lines glued first into a hole on the boat deck then run up into the funnel glued and trimmed.  This has slowed the entire process down by a considerable amount.

Two of the funnels are done, two more to go.
In short it sometimes behooves one to follow the kit instructions to a tee.  I say this as an experience modeler.  Many times in the past, due to painting or some special detail it is not always best to follow the instructions. Changing the assembly sequence only makes the modification more difficult to do.  In this case the instructions are correct.

Monday, May 7, 2012

The Lionel Little Train

A little departure from the Titanic.  I discovered this Lionel train that runs on AAA batteries and is remote controlled.  The entire set comes with engine, tender, gondola, caboose, enough track to make a small circuit going up a grade, across a trestle and down again.  There is also a loading station with two cubes for a load and two switches.  A number of small accessories complete the set.  The engine chugs along and the hand controller has a whistle.  In reverse, it gives a sound like a real steam engine going in reverse.
I will probably sell it on Ebay but for now, I am going to see if I can purchase more additional track from Lionel.  I have some doubts as the entire set is manufactured in China and in Chesterfield, Lionel I believe only has offices now.

video

So enjoy this quick movie!

Thursday, May 3, 2012

Titanic Part 5

The thumb is on the mend, so it's back to building the titanic.  I have painted and removed all the deck chairs where necessary and applied the wooden decks.  Per the instructions it looks like they want the rest of the decks and stacks built before assembling all the decks to the sides and attach the whole unit as one piece.
As yet, I have not decided on how I will tackle this next step.  I have assembled two of the chairs and placed them on the Bridge deck as shown where I removed two plastic ones early on in the construction, one on each side.
Here the remaining decks have been laid in place for these pictures

The stern gives a good view of the screws

looking carefully, you can see the deck chair, not yet painted on the deck just to the right of the hatches

Another view of the bow.
Stay tuned, I may not be updating until I have figured a way to go and have proceeded.
 
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